Where to begin? I allegedly read this book around 1982. There are some marks on the pages (p. 190: "Bosh! Stephen said rudely. A man of genius makes no mistakes. His errors are volitional and are the portals of discover.")
This time, though, I spent some real time on it, having also read Dubliners and Portrait and Ellmann's magnificent biography.
Stephen Daedalus is much less annoying and pious here than in Portrait. Of course, he's drunk a great deal of the time here, too.
Found "The Oxen of the Sun" section deeply annoying.